This is just a short blog to show off a couple of excellent deals that have appeared for ferry travel to the Isle of Wight Festival 2024. The car ferry can be very expensive for the festival once standard fares kick in, so get organised and get booked if you can. Wightlink and Red Funnel are the two main ferry companies - take a look at this guide if you want to know more about which ports they travel to and from. Wightlink's early bird deals for the Isle of Wight Festival 2024Wightlink's deals are really good and are valid until 9th October 2023. However, they "reserve the right to modify or cancel the offers at any time" so I wouldn't hang around. The car ferry deals are:
Standard weekend fares are likely to top £300, so a £100 deal is not to be sneezed at. As I said, don't hang around! The price includes a car full of passengers. They also have a foot passenger deal which is £12 or £18. It looks like this:
The standard foot passenger fare is about £20 - £35, so it's less of a saving but still good value. Red Funnel's early bird deals for the Isle of WIght Festival 2024Red Funnel's Isle of Wight Festival 2024 deals work a bit differently. The car ferry deal doesn't have an expiry date but it will end once a "limited number of early bird ferry sailings" are sold. The car ferry deal looks like this:
Again, that's a BIG saving on the standard fares. The foot passenger deal is an £18 return and doesn't appear to have an expiry date, so you can either book now or wait until nearer the time (I'm not 100% sure on this, but I think that's the case based on previous years). It is 'Valid Southampton or West Cowes/East Cowes' What if I've missed the early bird ferry deals?This is an additional for anyone who stumbles across this blog whilst desperately searching for a deal in May 2024.
If you are travelling to the Isle of Wight Festival as a foot passenger then it's not a big problem. Check our guides to foot passenger travel with Wightlink and Red Funnel for some money saving suggestions. Also check Hovertravel's fares (they didn't have an Isle of Wight Festival deal when we checked but they might have something when you read this). If you need to bring your car then you may be slightly irked at having missed the best offers. Sorry about that. Take a look at our main guide to discounts on Isle of Wight ferry travel for discount codes, money saving tips and loopholes which might help you.
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After the success of our car free bike ride from Freshwater Causeway to Off The Rails in Yarmouth, we decided to attempt another off-road track. This time it was the route which starts in Seaclose Park and leads up towards Island Harbour. Footpath fans will already know that it's called the Medina Greenway N120. Pricey Parking at Seaclose ParkThe first issue with this bike ride is that you have to pay seafront parking prices from Monday to Friday. This irks me as Seaclose Park is hardly as busy and short on parking spaces as Shanklin seafront in August. I erred between one hour (£2.05) or two hours (£3.60). Some money saving alternatives can be found on our guide to cheap parking. A couple of drinks at nearby Beefeater is probably your best strategy, as it gives you free parking. An alternative way to do this bike ride would be to start at Island Harbour and then cycle towards Seaclose Park. I haven't tested this out for myself but the Island Harbour website says that it has 'extensive, free of charge waterside car parking'. You could then stop halfway at Beefeater and avoid the parking charges. Seaclose Park has a good playground so you might want to include that in your plans. See our guide to the Isle of Wight's best playgrounds. The second issue we faced is that we only brought bikes for the children. Unlike Yarmouth there isn't a cycle hire place at Seaclose and I hadn't got round to getting a bike rack by this point. Anyway, we plodded on with the plan that they would cycle and we would walk. The muddy banks of the MedinaThe bike ride goes alongside the River Medina, which is nice but wasn't as scenic as the River Yar on this occasion. There are some nice bits but there are also big industrial units. It was low tide so we also endured something of a riverside stench for which the children tried to blame me. On the plus side, the track is off road all the way to Island Harbour. As you get near to Medina High School you want to fork left to stay close to the river. Most of the way, the track is a lot more narrow than the Freshwater to Yarmouth route and it goes up and down a bit. However, it was wide enough for child two who is still a bit wobbly. After half an hour or so we reached Island Harbour. You would do it in 10 minutes if you were a lycra-wearing enthusiast. On a grey day it looked a little bleak but I can imagine in the sunshine it is a lovely spot. The rusting paddlesteamer called PS Ryde is simultaneously fascinating and a bit sad at the same time. You can read about its history here. It is a notable vessel, which 'saw action at D-Day' as well as acting as a passenger ferry on the Solent for more than 30 years (according to Wikipedia). I don't wannabe late for the car parkUnfortunately, The Breeze café/restaurant at Island Harbour closed a while ago and hasn't reopened yet so this cycle route lost another point compared to Freshwater to Yarmouth. If you want to stop for food or drinks then you would need to carry on to The Folly at Whippingham or return to Beefeater at the start.
Island Harbour is currently home to The Spice Bus. It was used on the Spiceworld Movie which won nine Oscars (Ed: I think you're confusing it with The English Patient). We took a distant peak at the Spice Bus and turned round. You can't cycle in the Harbour itself. At this point, the stakes were raised as I realised we might not make it back in time before my parking ticket ran out. I had refused to pay for two hours as it was rather pricey but this was now about to backfire. To further add to the tension I had dared to use actual cash to pay to park, so topping up remotely wouldn't work. I contemplated a calculated gamble. Would there really be a traffic warden at mostly empty Seaclose Park at 5pm on a Monday? If they turned up, would they care if I was 15 minutes late? (Answers: probably not and yes, definitely). My heart couldn't take the stress of this situation so I decided that something needed to be done. Option one was for me to commandeer a bicycle from child one and pedal it back with my knees around my chin. Option two was to stop a passer by and shout "I'm sorry sir, I need this bike, it's an emergency". This seemed like the kind of thing that would happen in the Spiceworld Movie, which made it all the more tempting. Alas, there was no one else nearby so I dismissed this romantic idea. Option three was to top up remotely. For this I needed the same ingenuity that had allowed me to come up with brilliant inventions such as a Free Newspaper Printed On Toilet Roll (patent pending) and the transparent toaster (now widely available, so it seems someone else had the same idea). With a little searching I found an Isle of Wight Council PDF document listing all the Pay By Phone codes for the Island and managed to top up from the banks of the River Medina. We sauntered back to the car, only having paid through the nose for parking twice. We wrote an update a while ago about Totland Pier, which has been undergoing a transformation in recent years. Prior to that it was looking pretty holey and at risk of going the same way as the piers in Shanklin and Ventnor.
Things have been a bit quiet in the last few weeks, but we’ve recently spoken to the company which owns Totland Pier and have cobbled together a bit more of an update. All of this is subject to change but it’s good to know things are progressing. Totland Pier (including both of the new buildings) is now owned by the Wooldridge Group, which is based in Surrey. Google suggests they are a demolition company but they do various things, including hospitality, property development and er, roadsweepers. Their hospitality experience is as the parent company of Seasons Kitchen and Farm Shop in Surrey. The company bought Totland Pier in November 2022 from the people who were behind the redevelopment. They are the same people who are revamping the Albion in Freshwater and who own the highly-rated Sentry Mead Hotel in Totland. At the moment, the big new building at the wet end of the pier is just an empty shell. The new owners told me that they hope to start working on it this winter with a view to opening it at Easter 2024. They told us that it would serve lunch and dinner and that it would be open all year (with some closures in the depths of winter likely to give staff a break). There are 20 moorings at the end of the pier so that people could sail across to use the restaurant. In January, there were news reports that an application was turned down to convert the Bay Café into ‘five short-stay holiday rental rooms’. This is the building at the dry end of the pier which opened for one season and quickly became a popular place for dining with a sunset. Sophie from the Wooldridge Group told me that the plan was for ‘hotel rooms’ for guests who would dine at the new restaurant at the wet end of the pier. They plan to put another application in. Anyway, I hope that update is of some interest. Hopefully we can soon add the new restaurant to our places to eat with a sea view. I'm currently putting together an updated drone video of Totland Pier, filmed in August 2023. Until then, here are some screenshots of how it currently looks. Family outings are rarely like the holiday brochures. The sun is usually too hot or not available. The children are normally fighting. The café you planned to visit is usually closed. We experienced a brief moment of idyll on a recent cycling trip, along one of the Isle of Wight's best routes for families of wobbly cyclists. I'm working on a top five, but I want to try them all out first rather than relying on my fuzzy childhood memories. The route we took links the Causeway at Freshwater to Off The Rails in Yarmouth. It's about 1.8 miles each way or can you easily extend it by heading to Freshwater Bay or Yarmouth - if you don't mind a bit of cycling on roads. A couple of optionsThere are two ways to do this car-free cycle ride. Option one is to start at the Causeway. This is probably the best choice if you have your own bikes as the café is a good half way point. Option two is to start in Yarmouth where you can hire bikes from Wight Cycle Hire next door to Off The Rails and then finish the ride at the café. There is some free parking at the Bouldner View Car Park, which is an eight minute walk to the start of the cycle track. If you can cope with a little bit of time on the road, I would carry on to Freshwater Bay where you can buy an ice cream from the lifeboat shop or from Dimbola's café. The most direct route is to carry on along the path at the end of the Causeway which leads to Tesco and the End Of The Line café. It is then just under a mile on the road to the beach via Afton Road. It's a 40mph road and is fairly wide. You may want to walk on the pavement or wiggle through back roads. We went for option one as we have our own bikes. Dadmin before the bike ride beganThe younger child is far too wobbly for roads so I dutifully did multiple car journeys to get the bikes locked up against a post at the start line (The Causeway). The children were then able to just turn up and pedal off like they were royalty. Neither of them questioned how their bikes had appeared at this random location. We later noted that this must have been our least environmentally friendly bike ride of all time, since I had covered many miles to prepare the ride. There is some free parking on the road at The Causeway and it is a pretty place to start the ride with swans and other birds squawking away. My mother's friend can usually be found feeding the swans. The cycle track is a former railway and is very good for novice cyclists. It isn't completely smooth but our children coped with only minimal whining. The first 50 metres pedal alongside water, but it was low tide when we visited. After that, the track widens so that you have a better than average hope of not crashing into another group of wobbly cyclists coming towards you. We had lots of conversations which went "Keep left!" followed by "Which one's left?". The moment of idyll arrived at the widest point in the track when the sun shone through the leaves and everyone pedalled happily. Couples who were walking along the same path gave us a smile which - almost certainly - was meant as a congratulations to us for being outstanding parents. After about 25 minutes we reached Off The Rails, who found us a table and served us drinks. If you want food I would book in advance. The café is the former railway station and is truly lovely. One of our party even ordered ginger beer to complete the Enid Blyton moment. It's a fairly pricey café but I personally think it's worth it.
Of course, the idyll was demolished by summer's greatest peril - Mr Wasp. I suppose we can't blame him for arriving when we sat drinking sugary drinks and eating Jammy Dodgers. After some wasp dancing we went inside and finished our sugary drinks before pedalling back to the car. There's nothing I love more than an Isle of Wight ferry loophole or discount. Well, I love Mrs Guru and the kids more but ferry loopholes aren't too far behind. My latest discovery is a trick which will give you a foot passenger period return from Portsmouth to Cowes for £10. I beg your pardon?"But that's impossible!" I hear you cry, with a confused but polite tone. The deal involves using Solent Cruises, which describes itself as a 'passenger vessel company'. The main service they run is a foot passenger service for shoppers, which goes from Cowes to Portsmouth on Saturdays and Sundays at 9.30am. Islanders spend a day buying trousers in Gunwharf Quays before returning on the afternoon ferry at 4pm/5pm (the time varies depending on the time of year). It's not a new service, but the loophole involves using it backwards. There is nothing to stop you from using the Portsmouth to Cowes 4pm/5pm leg as the outward journey and then the 9.30am leg from Cowes to Portsmouth as the return. They only travel on Saturdays and Sundays, but they are perfectly happy for people to leave a week between crossings rather than using it as a day return service. I emailed Solent Cruises and they confirmed that this would be fine, but will need to mention it when booking so they know who will actually be on which crossing. If you give it a go, please leave a comment below as I'd love to hear if you've had some success with it. You can even get a free cup of tea or coffee if you hand over this voucher. It could potentially save you about £20-£25 compared to Wightlink's standard fares (although there are lots of other ways to save money). It could also be more convenient if you live in Portsmouth and are planning a holiday in Cowes. You could use the same ferry for a period return if - for example - you live in Cowes and wanted to spend a week on the mainland. Solent Cruises would get you to Gunwharf Quays, and then you could catch a train from Portsmouth Harbour to London. Other ways to save money on the Isle of Wight ferryIf that doesn't work for you, see our main guide to discounts on the Isle of Wight ferry or our guides to saving money on foot passenger travel with Red Funnel and Wightlink.
We are regular diners at the Dimbola cafe in Freshwater Bay. Our holiday let is next door and it has provided many brie, bacon and cranberry paninis. Despite this, I had never got round to visiting the museum at Dimbola. I could tell you great detail about the many Victorian artists who visited but hadn't actually been myself. The opportunity arose during the Women's World Cup when child two made it quite clear that she wasn't interested in watching the match. I dutifully offered to get her out of the way so the rest of the family could watch it in peace. We started at Freshwater Bay's bus stop library before heading for the Dimbola museum. At Dimbola, we paid about £7 for an adult and child and were given a clipboard and quiz - which is an absolute winner for us. A simple trail, ideally with a prize at the end turns a 20 minute trip into a 60+ minute trip. We also found this to be the case at the Isle of Wight Steam Railway recently. Their trail kept our two occupied very nicely and the clues were laid out well across the site. We also visited Yarmouth Castle in the same week. It's a beautiful building with gorgeous views but we were done in 19 minutes. The children's dressing up was being used by others when we popped our head round the door, so we moved along. The guidebook we bought was a detailed guide to its history rather than something to occupy the children. What we really needed was a series of letters hidden round the castle which spell out a word - and a prize pencil at the end. Anyway, back to Dimbola. The permanent exhibition is about the life of Julia Margaret Cameron. She treated photography as an art form, which was a novel idea in the 1800s. The museum is a collection of her cameras and photos, as well as a best-guess recreation of her bedroom. It's a good collection but the venue helps things along a lot as well. The building has a lot of character and excellent views of Freshwater Bay, which are almost as good as the views from my flat which is available to hire from Classic Cottages... (Ed: very subtle). We particularly liked the dressing up area at Dimbola, where we worked our way through the hats and dresses. It turns out that green satin is my colour. Thanks to the trail, we spent a good chunk of time in this part of the museum. Without the trail, I would have still been reading the first entry on the timeline whilst child two was pulling on my arm. When we finally handed in our worksheet, the volunteer on the ticket office did a good job of appearing impressed. This helped greatly. The rest of the museum was all about the Isle of Wight Festival, which holds a personal fascination for me (see our guide to unforgettable festival moments).
The permanent section is about the 1970 festival, which took place down the road in Afton. The temporary exhibition is about the festival's revival from 2002 to 2023. There are photos, a fantastic video of highlights and a few bits of memorabilia. I could have spent an hour or more in here, but child two didn't quite feel the same unfortunately as the trail only covered the permanent museum. I allowed myself a couple of minutes looking at festival photos before reluctantly moving on to the gift shop for an argument about whether a notepad needed to be paid for from the pocket money fund or my money. Read this guide to getting value for money at Blackgang Chine and Robin Hill before you book! There's an ongoing debate in our house over whether Blackgang Chine or Robin Hill is better. They are both popular Isle of Wight attractions but you may only have the time or budget for one during your holiday. Here's my summary - Robin Hill and Blackgang Chine cost about the same and get nearly identical reviews. They appeal to similar ages, both put on great events and have a similar number of rides. Blackgang Chine is better if you prefer fantasy theme parks and it also wins for views and nostalgia. Robin Hill is more spread out, more focused on nature and has more space for running around, with more playgrounds and more green space. Similar reviews and pricesCustomer reviews of Blackgang Chine and Robin Hill are exceedingly similar. Blackgang Chine scores 4.4/5 on Google reviews or 4/5 on Trip Advisor. Robin hill scores 4.5/5 on Google reviews or 4/5 on Trip Advisor. That gives Blackgang Chine an overall score of 8.4/10 and Robin Hill a score of 8.5/10. Honestly, I wouldn't make decisions based on a 1% difference. Both Blackgang Chine and Robin Hill are owned by the same family business and they cost about the same (see our guide for money saving tips). Robin Hill is usually a couple of pounds cheaper but you pay extra for the toboggan run so the difference is wiped out. Rides at Blackgang Chine and Robin HillBlackgang Chine has the scariest ride (Extinction) but Robin hill has the toboggan run, which is my favourite of the lot. The total number of rides is similar but Blackgang's rides are slightly more intense (only relatively speaker - neither are white-knuckle attractions). Robin Hill has a 4D cinema, a swinging pirate ship, a mini train ride and the toboggan run. There's also a tractor ride, which carries you round the park. Blackgang Chine has a water slide, a pendulum ride (Extinction), a rising platform ride (Evolution), pirate barrels and a magic carpet ride (Shipwrecked). Both parks are best for junior school aged children. Older children will enjoy one or two rides at each park but you might feel it wasn't the best use of your money if they spend the time sitting on a bench staring at their phone. See our guides to days out for teenagers for alternatives. Visiting time and viewsI would say that Robin hill takes us a little longer to visit but a lot depends on whether you stay and watch shows or just race round. The main difference is because Robin Hill is more spread out. Both have good views of the Island to entertain parents but Blackgang Chine wins on views for me. The sea views are really terrific. Robin Hill has nice rolling hills to look at from the observation tower but it's not quite the same. Theme and atmosphereRobin Hill is on a larger site, so it's better for running around. The bottom of the park has space for kicking a football or playing disc golf. There are three playgrounds plus a bouncy nets area at Robin Hill whilst Blackgang Chine just has one smallish adventure playground and a couple of bouncy nets. Robin Hill has lovely woodland gardens and more of a natural vibe with red squirrels (subject to availability) and falconry. Grandma will probably prefer Robin Hill because of the gardens and the roaming peacocks. Both parks put on summer shows and stay open late on some evenings. The Blackgang Chine evening shows I've been to have involved foam parties, loud music and fireworks, whereas Robin Hill does things like amphitheatre shows and hot air balloon events. If I had to choose, I would probably say that Robin Hill edges it on events but I did have a great time at the fireworks and foam party in 2023. Blackgang Chine has more of a fantasy vibe, with cowboys, dinosaurs, fairies, goblins, singing pets, pirate ships and so on. It's great if you like a parade of noise and excitement. In the 1970s, the park was split into themed lands with similar names to one of the Disney theme parks. That vibe has continued, albeit on a much smaller scale than Disneyland. Robin Hill is calmer, greener and more spread out. If you or your children struggle with crowds, I would go for Robin Hill as it's easier to find your own space. The appeal of nostalgiaFinally, there's the value of nostalgia. Blackgang Chine has been going for much longer so you probably visited when you were on a school trip. Some of the vintage attractions still survive, including the maze, the giant smuggler, some of the cowboys and dinosaurs and the fairy castle. See our history of Blackgang Chine for more information.
You may find that the nostalgia is too hard to resist. My father was never a fan of The Needles pleasure park. His ideal Isle of Wight day out involved avoiding people, which is unlikely to happen at something described as a 'Landmark Attraction'. And so, we never made it to the summertime fireworks displays growing up. Personally, I quite like a bit of atmosphere at a busy event and so decided to take child one for an evening out. We were blessed with an extraordinarily beautiful evening with orange skies and barely any wind. Child one was particularly keen to ride on the chairlift. Her last ride had been when she was four years old. It was a little tense as she wriggled and refused my offers to help her stay safely onboard. Six years later, such issues had gone and we greatly enjoyed our trip down. The cheapest way to ride the chairlift is to buy a 'Supersaver' book of 12 tickets for £9. We used seven tickets for an adult and a child to ride down the chairlift (£5.25 if you do the sums). It costs double for a return ticket. Riding down the chairlift offers better views but riding up the chairlift saves you huffing and puffing. I rank a good view highly so we went for that option. As far as I can tell, you can't buy tickets at the bottom of the cliff so you need to make your mind up before setting off. The views were glorious and it gave us one of the highlights of the summer. After climbing back up the steps, we rode the carousel. This required six tokens rather than the five I had remaining from the chairlift. Luckily, I had one token which had been sitting in my wallet for a couple of years which I was able to pull out with great satisfaction.
I suspect that by next summer, child one will feel a little too old to ride the carousel with me. Let's not dwell on that for too long though (Ed: keep it light). Next up, was a Corrs tribute act accompanied by Irish dancers (well, why not?). Finally, at 9.30pm it was the fireworks. I was expecting these to whoosh off the cliff edge but - presumably for practical reasons - they launched further inland. This required the road leading to the Needles to close briefly. Getting out the car park was a pretty drawn out process. My advice is to park near the exit if you want a quick getaway. Even so, it was a really lovely evening and one which we will be repeating next year. The Cripple Path and Tunnels in Niton is an excellent short walk for adventurous hikers and explorers with a good set of walking boots. I would not recommend this walk for young children, pushchairs, wobbly grandparents, nervous nellies or flip flop wearers. It is an exciting little trip which doesn't take long but you will almost certainly face major peril if you don't pay attention. We parked on Puckaster Lane and walked along Undercliff Drive to the start of footpath number NT117. You can see it on Google maps here. According to an Isle of Wight Council document, 'The name was first recorded in 1608 and comes from an Old English word for a narrow passage'. They reference a book written in 1940 by Kökeritz. From there it was a steep climb up for a few minutes until we reached the rather impressive overhanging cliff. There's a steep drop and no handrails here, so don't walk backwards to get a family photo. I made the foolish decision to send my drone up at this point. I skilfully navigated it through the gap in the trees with the plan of lowering it back through the same small hole. Unfortunately, my finger slipped and the drone disappeared out of view. It then began bleeping at me to let me know that its battery was two minutes away from failing. Needless to say, it was squeaky bum time until I finally landed it. After this excitement we continued to climb and then turned left to follow the footpath along the top of the cliff. The original footpath has been closed as it was getting rather close to the cliff so we ended up walking behind hedges for some of the way. Eventually, the view opened up to give us one of the South Wight's many excellent views. We then carried on and followed the footpath which led us down to Niton's tunnels. By the time you've gone through these you have pretty much completed a circle.
The whole thing took us about half an hour. The drone survived, as did we. **Wightlink's latest deals: Kids Go Free during holidays + Afternoon return for £15.60 + Car ferry offers** Wightlink's My Link loyalty scheme has been running for a few years now, but we've not really got round to crunching the numbers...(*dramatic pause*)...until now! Here's our guide to the discounts you can get with the MyLink scheme and how it compares to other available discounts. Who can sign up for Wightlink's My Link?The My Link scheme is only available 'if you live on the Isle of Wight'. That differentiates it from Wightlink's Multilink deals, which are valid to:
You aren't asked to provide proof of residency, but journeys have to start from the Isle of Wight. What discounts are available with Wightlink's My Link?You get food and foot passenger ferry travel discounts with Wightlink's My Link discount scheme. Honestly, food discounts don't excite me as I'm a bit of a cheapskate who never buys anything onboard a ferry (or onboard a plane or train or from a hotel minibar, football stadium or cinema - as I said, I'm a cheapskate). However, ferry discounts excite me greatly so let's examine those in more detail. The Wightlink My Link discount gives you a reduction of 'up to £2.40 on a standard foot Day Return ticket' or 'up to £3.20 on a standard foot Return ticket to the mainland'. There are also 'surprise seasonal offers'. I can't say any of these have blown my socks off recently but it may be the case that some customers are given better offers than others. I may have just been unlucky. The My Link discount varies as a percentage. For example:
Is Wightlink's My Link the best deal around or are there better alternatives?The good thing about My Link is that it is hassle free. I would encourage you to sign up and use it as a default discount if you would rather not spend too much time jumping through hoops. If you book online, 'your reduced foot passenger prices will automatically apply'. If you are buying a coffee onboard, you can show a QR code on the Wightlink app to get the discount. However, I am of the opinion that most people can beat a 10-12% discount on Wightlink foot passenger fares with a little bit of effort. There are several ways to do this, but I'm just going to discuss the main two on this blog. Firstly, if you are a semi regular traveller then the Multilink foot passenger deal is excellent value. If you pre-pay for five return journeys in a year then you'll pay £16 per return. That's a whopping discount of 57% off the standard period return fare on the Ryde Pier Head to Portsmouth Harbour crossing. It's a more modest discount if you do day trips or use the Lymington to Yarmouth or Fishbourne to Portsmouth crossing. In some cases, My Link actually beats Multilink - for example, a day return from Yarmouth in December 2023 will cost a pensioner £14.10 return, which is £1.90 cheaper than Multilink. My advice is to take a look at the prices on this page and have a best guess of what type of journeys you will be doing. Secondly, there are several ways to get yourself a 20% discount on Wightlink's foot passenger fares which will beat MyLink. Some require paid memberships, others are free to join. For example:
My Link ConclusionsMy Link is worth signing up for if you fit into either of these categories:
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Isle of Wight Guru's BlogTales of Isle of Wight days out, attractions and ferry discounts from a Wightophile. This site uses cookies - see our privacy policy. Ads & links in bold may give us a small payment from the seller, at no cost to the buyer. However, this never affects our views - if we like it, we recommend it. Archives
May 2024
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